"Four months after Senegal beat Morocco in the AFCON final, Skylar flew straight into the Lions' den. Revenge was on the menu. Teranga was served instead."
In January 2026, Senegal beat Morocco 1–0 in the Africa Cup of Nations final, in Rabat. So the next stop on the map after Morocco was, of course, Senegal.
It turned out to be the warmest welcome of the year. Senegal has a word for it, teranga, hospitality, and it isn't a slogan. The Senegalese people were extremely kind and welcomed us like family. The route started with a Champions League night in Madrid, ran down to Dakar and the far south at Cap Skirring, crossed into Gambia, then went north through Saly and across the border at Rosso into Mauritania, before a flight to Casablanca. Five countries in about three weeks.
🇪🇸Madrid· The starting line
Madrid opened the mission the right way: land, drop the bag, a fresh haircut, a kebab, and straight to the Metropolitano for Atlético against Arsenal in the Champions League semi-final, the same night. Arsenal went ahead from the penalty spot just before half-time through Viktor Gyökeres. Julián Álvarez levelled it from the spot in the 56th minute. 1–1, everything left for the second leg.
The next day was the classic Madrid loop on foot: Retiro Park, Gran Vía, the Bernabéu, paella near the Palacio de Cristal. Then a Celebreak pickup game in Alcalá, the Palacio Real, sunset at the Temple of Debod, and tapas at La Paradita to close the night. The last morning went to Toledo by train, back to Atocha in time for Jumu'ah, and then the flight south to Dakar.
Madrid quick notes
- Tourist travel card: covers the metro and buses. Worth it for a short stay with lots of moving around.
- Temple of Debod: free. A real Egyptian temple in the middle of Madrid, and the best sunset spot in the city.
- Toledo: an easy half-day by train from Madrid. Leave early and you're back by lunch.
- Celebreak: pickup football games you can join on your own. The fastest way to meet locals in a new city.
🇸🇳Dakar· Two stays, before and after the south
Dakar came twice: one quick night on arrival, then a longer stay after Cap Skirring, based around Almadies and Ngor. It's a city that lives on the water. The ferry to Île de Gorée. The walk along the beach to the port to cross to Île de Ngor. Plage Voile d'Or. The Phare des Mamelles lighthouse above it all.
One day went inland to Lac Rose, the pink lake, with Jumu'ah prayed outdoors by the water, and a stop in Mboro. Food was Al Mahdi (more than once), Chez Néné, Chez Fatou, and breakfast at the local boulangerie.
Dakar quick notes
- eSIM: set one up on arrival. You'll need maps from day one.
- Île de Gorée: ferry from the port in central Dakar.
- Île de Ngor: walk the beach to the little port and take the short boat across.
- Heading to Mauritania next? Print your visa paperwork in Dakar before you leave.
🇸🇳Cap Skirring· The slow part, on purpose
A short flight from Dakar to the far south of Senegal, and the whole pace of the trip changed. Empty beaches, a pool, rest. A pickup football game on day one, tiep for dinner. Scooters rented for 24 hours to ride out to Diembéring village and the Kadioute museum, and then, inevitably, along the beach itself.
Breakfast at the Cap Skirring bakery, dinner at Le Régale, a meal at Chez Fatou. This was the reset before the long road north.
The West African coast · The road north
🇬🇲Gambia· Banjul & Kololi
A short flight from Dakar into Gambia, and a nice villa on Airbnb in the Senegambia and Kololi area. Days went to visiting the city and to the beach, where the waves were the main event.
🇸🇳Saly· One afternoon by the sea
Back into Senegal for an afternoon at the beach in Saly. The Village des Artisans sells beautiful shirts that mix modern cuts with a Senegalese touch. Lunch was at Chez Sacha, recommended by a fisherman on the beach who also offers excursions on his boat: sail to other towns along the coast, fish on the way, and eat what you catch.
🇲🇷Rosso & Nouakchott· Across the border
Then north, overland, across the Senegal River at Rosso into Mauritania. Rosso is a border, not a destination: ferry delays, paperwork and cash.
Nouakchott, the capital, was for walking around, a barbershop, good food, and a coffee at the Second Cup Boulangerie Café, which has pictures of the Château Frontenac on its walls. The Moroccan mosque is beautiful. The beach was nice, but the water was too rough to swim.
The original plan was to keep going overland up to Dakhla. The road was too long, so a flight from Nouakchott to Casablanca took over instead.
🇲🇦Casablanca· Back on home ground
Casablanca closed the mission with a highlight nobody planned: meeting Sean Garnier, Skylar's favourite street footballer, and Mehdi Amri, an upcoming legend, at a Red Bull tournament.
Evenings were for walking around Maarif at night, which is very nice. Football too: Wydad beat Raja Béni Mellal 2–0 in the Throne Cup. And the food was very good at Comptoir Beldi.